| SPS Coral Forum Discuss "Small Polyped Stony" Corals here |
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04-10-2006, 11:06 AM
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#1
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 198
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hair algae
Gads, I've got hair algae. Am in the process of getting my euro reef CS6-2Plus skimmer installed, instead of my too small amiracle skimmer on my 135. I have 3 400w 10k halides and 2 72" vho actinics running. Will the skimmer fix the problem? What can I do, some is growing near one of my frags now. I have two sally lite foot crabs, coral band shrimp and some red and blue leg crabs and a couple snails, not sure of the count on the crabs under 10 for sure. HELP!!! Just starting the acropora and don't want to loose them.
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04-10-2006, 11:10 AM
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#2
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 9,641
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During water changes you can siphon out the hair algae.
What are you levels at when you test?
The skimmer will help remove most of the stuff that cause algae to grow. But if its growing like that then there is a cause behind it like high phosphates and or nitrates.
How do you feed your fish and what do you feed and how often do you feed them? How often do you do waterchanges and clean your substrate?
Tim
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04-10-2006, 11:18 AM
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#3
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 198
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Tim224DT
During water changes you can siphon out the hair algae.
What are you levels at when you test?
The skimmer will help remove most of the stuff that cause algae to grow. But if its growing like that then there is a cause behind it like high phosphates and or nitrates.
How do you feed your fish and what do you feed and how often do you feed them? How often do you do waterchanges and clean your substrate?
Tim
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nitrates are 40-80 using test strip kit. Deepened my sand bed and getting the better skimmer. Feeding flake and sm. pellet food, using seachem additives. Not sure of my phosphates.
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04-10-2006, 11:26 AM
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#4
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Professor Chaos
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Arkham Asylum
Posts: 9,684
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You need to do some MAJOR water changes. Your nitrates need to be at 0 for SPS. You should also get a regular test kit and ditch the dip strips, they are very innaccurate. If you have a big outbreak then odds are your phosphates are off the charts too. prepare to buy some salt. can you please list the fish you have in the system?
__________________
 I mix twinkies and ding dongs all the time, in Europe they call it a Dinky -- Homer Simpson
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04-10-2006, 11:28 AM
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#5
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 9,641
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Yes nitrates need to be lower than 5 at the most. Lots of waterchanges within the next few weeks is a must.
Tim
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04-10-2006, 11:35 AM
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#6
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 198
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tank specs
let me get a pen and paper and I'll put it in the tank spec area on the homepage.....
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04-10-2006, 12:06 PM
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#7
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I've got the REEF rash!
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 23,915
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Water Change with good RO/DI water.
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04-10-2006, 02:38 PM
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#8
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 198
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Twitterbait
You need to do some MAJOR water changes. Your nitrates need to be at 0 for SPS. You should also get a regular test kit and ditch the dip strips, they are very innaccurate. If you have a big outbreak then odds are your phosphates are off the charts too. prepare to buy some salt. can you please list the fish you have in the system?
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using the saltwater master test kit, liquid it would be 15 for nitrates
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04-10-2006, 03:20 PM
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#9
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Professor Chaos
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Arkham Asylum
Posts: 9,684
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Still a little high. as tim said you don't want it any more than 5. that plus phosphates is totally driving the algae on IMO. I would not add any more coral until the problem is done.
__________________
 I mix twinkies and ding dongs all the time, in Europe they call it a Dinky -- Homer Simpson
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04-10-2006, 04:24 PM
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#10
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BIG SMELLY MOD
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livingston Parish, Denham Springs, Louisiana
Posts: 16,783
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water Changes are the best with good RO/DI water, Cut back on feeding and the better skimmer will help. Have to cut it at the source, stop adding the nutrients to the tank. The acroporas want clean water and good current, This tread Called Mixed bag is very good to read.. very good tread. I agree don't add until You have it under control
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Vince aka VINNIE
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04-27-2006, 05:44 PM
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#11
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 198
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also in general discussion forum
Hi, i've got this in general discussion, could you read it and reply please? I've got some questions on a reply about my lighting. He said 400 watt was too much and I should get 250's.....since I want and have acropora frags at this time I figured maybe you guys were more experienced on the lighting issue here in the sps forum?.....

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04-27-2006, 06:53 PM
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#12
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Shark
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Yuma, Arizona
Posts: 1,472
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How long are your lights on for? MH should not be on for 10-12 hrs.
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55gal... BB of course! 
Love the
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04-27-2006, 07:14 PM
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#13
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 198
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Little Luey
How long are your lights on for? MH should not be on for 10-12 hrs.
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8 hours staggered from 9 AM, 10 AM, 11 AM for 8 hours each 5,6,7PM off time. The 72" actinic VHO's are on 8 AM to 10 PM.
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04-27-2006, 07:56 PM
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#14
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BIG SMELLY MOD
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Livingston Parish, Denham Springs, Louisiana
Posts: 16,783
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I don't agree with the lights being too much, on a stable system without a bunch of nutrients, You are not going to have a problem, The algea is feeding off of nutrients in the tank, Maybe from the sandbed or rock itself, over time it just took up a bunch of junk and can't handle it. You can cut back the lights but thats not solving your problem. and the hair and grenn algae is not going to go away.
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Vince aka VINNIE
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04-28-2006, 10:56 AM
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#15
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: KS
Posts: 198
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lights look greenish
could it be the bulbs age? the left light is on now and it has a distinct green tint in the tank....I bought the light used.
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