checking my parameters

[lake]

I have a 155 reef tank that has been up for 18 months it has the following hardware:
ELOS 2000 Skimmer
GFO Phosphate Reactor
Nitrate Reactor (Sulfer)
Filta M zeovite with Elos Rb10 and Rb 20
Fed Omega, Iodine and Pro Skimmer daily

2 250 Watt HQI 14,000 Metal Halide about 8-10" over the tank
2 54 watt Blue atinic
External Coralife 1270 with 4.5 feet of head pressure
2-400 Maxi jets
2-600gph Korellas
Acitvated Carbon run 24/7
Lights on 11 hours a day

Salinity 1.024
Temp 78-79
Ph 8.2-8.4
Nitrate trace to 0
Phosphate o
Calcium 500
Mag 1300

Water change 20% every 3-4 weeks

Here are my questions:

Do I have enough flow to grow a lot of SPS? Is my external turning over the tank enough?

What recomedations would you make to ensure the tank is set up right.

Do I need more powerheads and what would you recomend?

Do I have enough wattage for my tank

[luther1200]

Welcome to the site.


I think you would need a bit more flow for SPS. I would get a Vortech MP40. But if you don't have the money since they are expensive, I would get 2 more Koralia #4's.


I think you have enough light.

[three90s&125sump]

What's your KH and your calcium. is too high for your Mg level, Mg needs to be >3X Ca and Ca only needs to be 420. I think you have plenty of light (this coming from a guy that has a 400 watt MH on a 40 gallon cube) for your tank (if it is 4 foot long). You need to have 1 MH per 2 feet in lenth of your tank. A MH only cover a 2 foot X 2 foot area.

I would recommend getting more flow in the tank via some tunzes or koralias (money would decide). As for your over flow turnover, you only need to flow as much water as your skimmer can process at a time and I'm not firmiliar with your skimmer so I can't say.

I would also double (or even tripple) your actinic bulbs if you run you MHs for the duration of the photoperiod. If not get 4 more 50/50 bulbs and run them with your actinics.


I personally would not run carbon 24/7. If you want to run it, run it for a couple days prior to your water changes. Carbon removes trace elements that can become a limiting factor in the success of your system.

[Fat Tony]

Originally Posted by lake

I have a 155 reef tank that has been up for 18 months it has the following hardware:
ELOS 2000 Skimmer
GFO Phosphate Reactor <--wouldn't use this with the zeo system, then again, wouldn't use the zeo system
Nitrate Reactor (Sulfer) <-- don't really need this with sufficient LR
Filta M zeovite with Elos Rb10 and Rb 20 <-- not my thing personally...
Fed Omega, Iodine and Pro Skimmer daily <-- Don't need this, never add what you can't test for, Iodine is a trace element anyway and with proper waterchanges you will maintain a more than plentiful level. My recommendation, stop dosing everything and do some decent sized waterchanges till you get the levels back down for the iodine and what ever else has been added tot he water

2 250 Watt HQI 14,000 Metal Halide about 8-10" over the tank <-- plenty of light with the right reflectors, what are you using as reflectors?
2 54 watt Blue atinic <-- not really needed during the day, but work well for dusk dawn effect like I do
External Coralife 1270 with 4.5 feet of head pressure
2-400 Maxi jets <-- ditch these for some more Koralias
2-600gph Korellas <-- add a few more, but get a couple of the K4's instead
Acitvated Carbon run 24/7 <-- not really needed, I'd only run it weekly at the most
Lights on 11 hours a day

Salinity 1.024 boost this to 025-026
Temp 78-79 not bad, I keep mine between 80 and 83
Ph 8.2-8.4 how and when are you testing this?
Nitrate trace to 0 good
Phosphate o really not necessary, hobby level tests only test for free phosphates and cannot test for bound phosphates. You will know you have a phosphate issue by coral colorationa and algae growth.
Calcium 500 that's a bit steep, need to get that down to 380-420 with an Alk of 8-10 dkH and Mag around 1300-1350
Mag 1300

Water change 20% every 3-4 weeks boost this to every couple weeks

Here are my questions:

Do I have enough flow to grow a lot of SPS? Is my external turning over the tank enough? Nope, recommend at least 30x's turnover (don't include your return pump from the sump into this #)

What recomedations would you make to ensure the tank is set up right. see above remarks

Do I need more powerheads and what would you recomend? Yes, Korallia's, Vortech or Tunze

Do I have enough wattage for my tank

What are the dimensions of your 155?

[lake]

Originally Posted by Fat Tony

What are the dimensions of your 155?

Tank is 48 long x 24 wide x 30 deep
HQI have a multi-faceted light enhancing German mirror finish reflectors- it is a hamilton set up a Belize sun with moon lighting
KH is high at about 13 normally is 10-11
Ph is 8.2 in tha am and 8.3 to 8.4 during the day

Why are you not a fan of the Zeo? Would you stop it and the phosphate reactor or just stop the Zeo?

When you say 30 x turnover essentially you mean 30 x 150 or 4500 gph in power heads correct?

[lake]

Originally Posted by three90s&125sump

What's your KH 13 which is running high for the tank it is normally around 10-11 just tested it and will bring Ca down ( thanks) and your calcium. is too high for your Mg level, Mg needs to be >3X Ca and Ca only needs to be 420. I think you have plenty of light (this coming from a guy that has a 400 watt MH on a 40 gallon cube) for your tank (if it is 4 foot long it is 4ft long). You need to have 1 MH per 2 feet in lenth of your tank. A MH only cover a 2 foot X 2 foot area.

I would recommend getting more flow in the tank via some tunzes or koralias (money would decide). As for your over flow turnover, you only need to flow as much water as your skimmer can process at a time and I'm not firmiliar with your skimmer so I can't say.

I would also double (or even tripple) your actinic bulbs if you run you MHs for the duration of the photoperiod. If not get 4 more 50/50 bulbs and run them with your actinics. what does this add? here is a better description of my atinics 2-T5 420nm 54 watt High Output real actinic blue bulbs with individual wrap around T5 bulb reflectors


I personally would not run carbon 24/7. If you want to run it, run it for a couple days prior to your water changes. THanks Carbon removes trace elements that can become a limiting factor in the success of your system.

[lake]

I know it was stupid to have a red coris in there-he needs to come out but I haven't gotten around to it. Now that all the hermits and 2 small clams are gone he has settled into fish food and copepods

[three90s&125sump]

I use actinics heavily. I ussually run 3 actinics to 1 daylight. It makes the colors pop more and SPS color temp for PAR peaks around 420 nm. If you run your halides for 11 hours a day I would not worry about it. I would leave it as is. Maybe even run them a couple more hours per day.

[lake]

Originally Posted by three90s&125sump

I use actinics heavily. I ussually run 3 actinics to 1 daylight. It makes the colors pop more and SPS color temp for PAR peaks around 420 nm. If you run your halides for 11 hours a day I would not worry about it. I would leave it as is. Maybe even run them a couple more hours per day.

thanks-just checked and Mh are running 12 hours. atinics start 1.5 hours earlier in the am and 2 hours in the evening after the mh have gone off

[Fat Tony]

Originally Posted by lake

Tank is 48 long x 24 wide x 30 deep
HQI have a multi-faceted light enhancing German mirror finish reflectors- it is a hamilton set up a Belize sun with moon lighting
KH is high at about 13 normally is 10-11
Ph is 8.2 in tha am and 8.3 to 8.4 during the day

Why are you not a fan of the Zeo? Would you stop it and the phosphate reactor or just stop the Zeo?

When you say 30 x turnover essentially you mean 30 x 150 or 4500 gph in power heads correct?

For the lighting, I would recommend some different reflectors in the future for that depth of tank, Something like the Lumenbrights or Lumenmax Elites for the upgrade. You could use the ballasts from the existing system. A 30" deep tank is going to need some good reflectors to penetrate to the bottom and give good PAR. The Hamilton reflectors are not really that efficient in relation to more moder reflectors. Anything less than the above listed reflectors an you are short changing yourself on usable light from your bulbs.

Just not a fan of the Zeo method personally. For me it adds more cost and not enough return (again opinion). Good coloration of the corals can be achieved through proper husbandry and efficient skimming. As for the Zeo method vs Phosphate remover, you only want to run one, not both. The Zeo method is a bacterial driven system and the phosphate remover is limiting the effectiveness of it (from my readings). Also, the nitrate reactor is also limiting the Zeo method, not to mention it really isn't needed if you practice proper husbandry techniques. My opinion is to run only the phosphate media and no Zeo method, but again that is personal preference.


Yes, 30x's turnover= 30x's 150 or 4500gph from powerheads. Personally, I would go higher... if you can afford it. A good way to get you to 4500 is to run 4 Korallia 4's. that will equate to 4800 gph. Or you could shoot for 6000gph via 4 Seio 1500's (make sure to get the sure grip magnet mounts additionally.)

[luther1200]

I think your biggest issue will be flow. You definitely need more IMO. I personally like Vortech's the best. The random flow they create is amazing. But a cheaper alternative is Koralia's. Tunze's are also good, I just like Vortech better in that price range. Its nice to have the motor and wires outside the tank, and I like the Vortech controller better. But many people use and love Tunze also, its just a personal choice.


Some don't like to run carbon 24/7 but I always have. I like to have it as a buffer in case something were to happen. And it helps to clear the water so more light can penetrate it. I recently switched to a high quality carbon and my colors have gotten noticeably better.

[three90s&125sump]

A touch more on flow... I have 2 K4s modded with maxi mod sure flow mod kits and I also have 2 tunze 6100 streams. If money is a factor I highly recommend doing the sureflow mod on the K4s. For about 50 bucks (if you shop around) you can have 90 percent of the flow of a 300 dollar 6100. Not to mention the K4s have nicer mounting equipment, are less obtrusive and cheaper to operate as well. They are just not controlable. I have 2 6100s and 2 sureflow modded K4s in my 40 cube. Total turn over rate with all pumps at full power is 300X. 30X turn over is a good start but I recommend more. I would shoot for 80X - 100X turnover. I average 225X with controllers active. 4 modded K4s will get you to 80X turnover. This is all directly related to filtration via agressive skimming.


Uh... What's your substrate?


I definatly recommend doing several large (30%) water changes with some fresh and balanced ASW. Salinity - 35ppt, Ca - 420, KH - 9d and Mg - 1300. Be sure to mix the fresh ASW for 24 hours with a good pump and plenty of fresh air. It looks like you have been dosing and your conservative proportionality of your water has been thrown off. Even if its not that bad, several good water changes will only help.


BTW, Your tank looks great.

[lake]

Jason:

My substrate is sand about 1" to cover the bottom of the tank, in the back of the tank it may get to 2-3" in some spots.

Thanks for all the feedback! Cute girlfriend by the way

Originally Posted by three90s&125sump

A touch more on flow... I have 2 K4s modded with maxi mod sure flow mod kits and I also have 2 tunze 6100 streams. If money is a factor I highly recommend doing the sureflow mod on the K4s. For about 50 bucks (if you shop around) you can have 90 percent of the flow of a 300 dollar 6100. Not to mention the K4s have nicer mounting equipment, are less obtrusive and cheaper to operate as well. They are just not controlable. I have 2 6100s and 2 sureflow modded K4s in my 40 cube. Total turn over rate with all pumps at full power is 300X. 30X turn over is a good start but I recommend more. I would shoot for 80X - 100X turnover. I average 225X with controllers active. 4 modded K4s will get you to 80X turnover. This is all directly related to filtration via agressive skimming.


Uh... What's your substrate?


I definatly recommend doing several large (30%) water changes with some fresh and balanced ASW. Salinity - 35ppt, Ca - 420, KH - 9d and Mg - 1300. Be sure to mix the fresh ASW for 24 hours with a good pump and plenty of fresh air. It looks like you have been dosing and your conservative proportionality of your water has been thrown off. Even if its not that bad, several good water changes will only help.


BTW, Your tank looks great.

[lake]

jason

you know anything about the Coralvue high seas? it is a dual headed powerhead that my atlanta reef club folks are saying moves alot of water but is much cheaper? moves about 3000 gph

[three90s&125sump]

I think I saw one a couple weeks ago. Its pretty big. Twice the size of a K4. Not sure if it is the same powerhead but sounds like it.

The girlfriend is only cute till she opens her mouth.