why are all my sps getting lighter?

[King-Kong]

I ran 10k Ushios for a bit (250w, DE, HQI). I believe Spanky also runs 10ks. I recently switched to 14k Ushios, however, and plan to stay here. Just a TAAAAAD more white, and has higher output according to Sanjay's tests!

[cwegescheide]

Originally Posted by King-Kong

I ran 10k Ushios for a bit (250w, DE, HQI). I believe Spanky also runs 10ks. I recently switched to 14k Ushios, however, and plan to stay here. Just a TAAAAAD more white, and has higher output according to Sanjay's tests!

So 14K Ushios are more white and just as much par as the 14K Pheonix bulbs? I am looking to change from the pheonix. Too much blue for me. I used to use the 13K Megachromes and I think the coral colors were better for the most part. Only ran them for a few months though before switching to the pheonix. Wish i wouldn't have sold the megachromes now!!

Thanks,
Chris

[Leonardo's Reef]

Ushio 14.000 K have more PAR then Phoenix 14.000 K.

The Ushio 14 K is more crisp white then the Phoenix 14 K, wich is more blue looking.

I use the Aqua-Connect 14 K (same as Phoenix) I'm very happy with it. Because I can always use more PAR I'll switch to the Ushio (BLV) 14 K next time.

Like King-Kong said, 14 K Ushios have a higher spike in the blue then the 10 K Ushios, while the rest of the spectrum is the same. The overall output of the 14 K are higher therefore.

This is the link to Sanjay's site. (hope it is allowed) It's a great site to get objective info about MH bulbs.

http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/select2lamp.php

-Leonardo

[Leonardo's Reef]

Can we go back to the topic maybe

SPS getting lighter:

My Big Acropora microphthalma is getting lighter and lighter. I don't want to lose it.

Plan for this week. I will add a remote DSB of caribsea Aragive. For the extra feeding of my corals I will use Salifert Amino-Acids and Salifert Coral-Food.
I will also start with the complete Prodibio line. (only use Biodigest now) This to help the remote DSB develop. In this remote DSB I will put small bristleworms to slowly "clean" the DSB without disturbing it. This to prevent (slowing down) the possibility of a crash of the DSB.

My skimmer will be shut off (power off) a few hours at night automatically, this because I don't want to skim out the amino's and coral food immediatelly.

Hope I have this running next week. In my Thread I will post my experiences and results.

-Leonardo

[Wiskey]

Don't change too much at once. (I'm going to get it for saying that)

I have heard of people having problems with the probeto line. The coral foods you listed and Amino acids are fine, but I would really hold off on Probeto until you have a healthy tank to work with.

JMHO,
Whiskey

[Wiskey]

P.S. We had a topic?

[Jimbo]

I'm also sorry for hijacking this thread,

What we try to combat bleaching of corals could be helpful.

I mainly just run the MH light 4 hours a day, the new frags seem to be ok with just this much light. I've fed a little more since I have a new fish that is kind of skinny. I will feed blender mush twice a week.

I am a little worried about nitrates since the photo period is so much less, but have a new reefsun / actinic bulb on the way, so this should supplement for the rest of my 12 hour light period. At the moment only have older actinics running.

Since I've been feeding blender mush the ORP level is at about 300 so I have started using ozone again for the last couple of days with no ill affects to the new frags, pulp extension during the period of the MH lighting is good.

ORP levels could be a good measure of our nutrient poor enviroment.

[Leonardo's Reef]

Originally Posted by Wiskey

Don't change too much at once. (I'm going to get it for saying that)

I have heard of people having problems with the probeto line. The coral foods you listed and Amino acids are fine, but I would really hold off on Probeto until you have a healthy tank to work with.

JMHO,
Whiskey

The terms topic and thread are used for the same thing in Holland, sorry for the mix up.

I already use prodibio now, my plan was to use the other products also. Mainly this will be coral food and bacteria food. I haven't had problems with this stuff, but I also heard of it.

I skip the sandbed for a while, first I will see what this changes will do.

You are right about the changes, I think I will add the DSB and start to feed Amino+coral food. If things become better I will start with PRODIBIO.

Jimbo, I don't know what my ORP is. I think if it's above 450 you have to worry about running the tank too clean. 350-400 is fine.

Leonardo

[gwaco]

you guys are killin me ! go back and reread pages 1 & 2 . the answers are sitting there in black type ! leonardo , don't add the remote sand bed , if you are having some difficulties now , why would you want to add something else to worry about ! you don't have to have a great assortment of fish , just some fish , maybe a small school of something like those cardinal fish you posted in the other thread ! a small school of the same fish may give the illusion of a sparsly populated tank !
i am sorry to hear the the microphthalma is lighting up , and i am sure you don't want to lose it , but if there is one thing i have learned is that nothing is guarenteed to live and grow . i know i have lost my share of corals no matter how hard i tried to keep them alive . as long as algae isn't growing on it or tissue sloughing off , the best thing may be to just leave it to see what happens .

[Wiskey]

The terms topic and thread are used for the same thing in Holland, sorry for the mix up.

No, you got it right, I was just making a joke about how threads seem to go off track here,... Course I'm no help.

I skip the sandbed for a while, first I will see what this changes will do.

You are right about the changes, I think I will add the DSB and start to feed Amino+coral food. If things become better I will start with PRODIBIO.

Jimbo, I don't know what my ORP is. I think if it's above 450 you have to worry about running the tank too clean. 350-400 is fine.

Leonardo

So are you saying your going to try the sandbed first? Or the Probetio first?

Whiskey

[gwaco]

and why in the world would you want to add the amino acids after this post ?

Originally Posted by Spanky

amino = ammonia

You pay a biological filter to remove ammonia immediately.

[NoSchwag]

I feel bad for spanky sometimes.

[gman0526]

Originally Posted by NoSchwag

I feel bad for spanky sometimes.

Agreed

[Leonardo's Reef]

Why you feel bad for Spanky??

Amino-acids contains a Nitrogen component, but is not the same as Ammonia. Because my Nutrient level is so low, amino-acids can help to feed the corals, and improve calcification of the SPS.

Leonardo

[Spanky]

Leonardo, can you tell me what NH2 is? Can you tell me where it would be found in marine environments? What causes it to flux?

Then I will tell you how it is used as a marker for ammonia/ammonium in marine environments and sediments.

You are running a closed system that the nutrient levels are so low that peeing in your tank will improve calcification in your stony corals.