| Nano Reef Buildoff 2005 This forum is for contest participants to post their threads to document their tanks progress. The purpose of the contest is to promote the sharing of ideas in system building specifically for nano reefs. |
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11-01-2005, 04:41 PM
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#61
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Master of Perplexity
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: panama city beach FL
Posts: 3,431
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Looks good though you're running out of space for the barbed fitting (there is a threaded union that will screw right onto a barbed fitting and the top of a Mag (threaded) pump. You're wise to use a piece of flex tubing. I originally plumbed mine with hard pipe and the vibration on the bottom of the tank was sooooo noisy. I also envisioned it vibrating the bottom glass to bits! Nice neat connection through the drain too. Reminds me of Geoff's skimmer connections.
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11-01-2005, 04:46 PM
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#62
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Reef Junkie
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Salem Oregon USA
Posts: 187
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on thing about the "check valve" which I assume is a one way valve to stop your back flow. I have one of these that I put in my return line on my 90 gal, so that if the pumps turned off it wouldn't back syphon and flood my sump. (I keep the sump pretty full normally, and didn't want it to flood the living room) anyway back to the point. afterr running mine for about 6 months I did a test on it and the check valve leaked due to calcium build up in it. so you should probably do regular checks to make sure that it is still sealing correctly, as to avoid problems that might occur.
Other than that it looks pretty good if you have problems with not being able to get the water to run evenly over all the sides you could always notch one of the sides a little lower than the rest and have just 1 side that all the water runs down. (would require less work in cleaning in the long run just my opinion).
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11-01-2005, 04:54 PM
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#63
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,284
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by Stevendietzel
on thing about the "check valve" which I assume is a one way valve to stop your back flow. I have one of these that I put in my return line on my 90 gal, so that if the pumps turned off it wouldn't back syphon and flood my sump. (I keep the sump pretty full normally, and didn't want it to flood the living room) anyway back to the point. afterr running mine for about 6 months I did a test on it and the check valve leaked due to calcium build up in it. so you should probably do regular checks to make sure that it is still sealing correctly, as to avoid problems that might occur.
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PRECISELY why the union is right before it!!
This pipe-in-pipe thing was a bit of a PIA. I don't ever want to have to do that again....so coming OUT of there, you'll notice a union. This way, if any plumbing AFTER that has to be re-done...I only have to remove that part!
I've heard NOTHING but BAD things about check valves...so I've built this with very little faith in it. KNowing full well that I'll have to clean it, or replace it every once in a while.
But I TRULY appreciate the heads up! very easily could have overlooked that!!!
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11-01-2005, 04:56 PM
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#64
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,284
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by yardboy
Reminds me of Geoff's skimmer connections.
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yeah...after looking at it for quite a bit now, I was thinking the same thing. Very similar. hahaha
and yes...I know room will be tight. I really want to put a shelf above the split...so had to have it split down kind of low. I also know a 90° could have given me more room to play with...but I'm under the understanding that 2 45° have less head loss than 1 90° (hope that's right!!!)
So I chose to use two 45°'s. This has cost me some room...but I"m planning on putting the pump on it's side...so even if the barbed fitting is at water level, or a little under...I'm hoping the flex will give me back some of that room.
we shall see!
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11-01-2005, 05:03 PM
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#65
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,284
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two last things...any answers/advice would be appreciated!
1. Does PVC glue meld the pieces together? or just fill the gap? Here's why I ask...where the 1/2" pvc goes into the 2"...I cut a pretty good hole. Somewhat tight, for being drilled by human hands. And the PVC glue seems to have formed a seal. But I'm wondering whether to seal over that with Silicone just to be safe? or if it's needed. advice?
2. I'm very hesitant to actually use PVC glue on the 2" pipe into the bulkhead. And also the 1/2" pipe into the tank's bulkhead. Reason being...once I do this..the tank become PERMANENT! Can't remove it from the stand or the tray. (bulkheads are slip-connections on the inside...NOT threaded)
Taking each one separately: - If the 2" pipe isn't glued into the bulkhead...I'm thinking...even if there IS leakage...it would run down the pipe into the sump, right? might get some salt-creep...but other than that...no harm, no foul?
- if the 1/2" pipe leaks...same thing...only it'll leak down INSIDE the 2" pipe, right? Any issue here?
I guess my question is...if a pipe is NOT glued into the bulkhead...do I have a little bit of a leak? or a really good chance of a leak? When glueing the pipe to the bulkhead...is this just a recommendation? or completely necessary.
again...any advice would be appreciated!!!
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11-01-2005, 06:13 PM
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#66
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Human grounding probe
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Wyoming
Posts: 1,852
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I talked to a guy in SLC that has a clam tank like that. He had a hard time leveling so he notch a side. He hates it. Says it was so much easier keeping it clean with all of the sides wet. Saltcreep was horrible. He scrapped the tank and built another and overcame the even flow issue by, well, leveling the tank and increasing the flow of the return.
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70T/RR: Wannabe bare bottom hair algae factory
Bare Bottom and hate it!!!!  
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11-01-2005, 09:24 PM
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#67
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Tang Lover
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 7,284
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well...while trying to fit the plumbing to the stand...had a bit of an accident:
but luckily, I'd learned to use my acrylic bonder...and I fixed the crack!
And back on to glueing/finishing the plumbing. And VIOLA:
Next...we takle the lights! But here's a little teaser:

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11-01-2005, 09:32 PM
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#68
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 9,641
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Very cool looking!
Tim
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11-01-2005, 10:16 PM
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#69
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300 Pound Gorilla
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Hudson, WI / Hong Kong
Posts: 2,640
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This could be the coolest nano ever!
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JP
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Currently between tanks......And countries!!!!
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11-01-2005, 10:17 PM
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#70
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Little Fishy
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 90
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I can't wait to put stuff in it!
Then Mike won't be ringleader of the thread anymore!
This has been quite an experience thus far.
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Kayla Mae! Skeety Spawn! First Generation Member of WMRC! As you can see, I'm a very excitable person.
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11-01-2005, 10:17 PM
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#71
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Eat more PIE
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 18,604
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cool nano but you cracked it  J/K
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Double your drive space. Delete Windows
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11-01-2005, 10:18 PM
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#72
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Milkshake Man
Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: SW Florida
Posts: 9,641
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Quote:
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Originally Posted by MaylaKae
I can't wait to put stuff in it!
Then Mike won't be ringleader of the thread anymore!
This has been quite an experience thus far.
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Thats all that matters you having fun while building the nano!
Tim
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11-02-2005, 01:20 AM
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#73
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Shark
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Alaska
Posts: 1,119
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That is soooo awesome!
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11-02-2005, 03:14 AM
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#74
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It can be rebuilt.
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Pittsboro, NC
Posts: 19,158
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Impressive!!
i hate not being able to get started on mine.
a couple of concerns.
sillycone does not stick to acrylic to save its life. it seems like it does now, but in a few months when it is fully cured it starts to pull away from the acryilic. i have had parts literally just fall off over time. there was a lot of trial and error in my sumps.
did you look at uni-seals/tee-eliminators for your pipe within a pipe plan? you could use flex pipe through the seal this should give you enough slop to do the plumbing without worrying about it being permanent.
with the tank raised that much it will make a fair amount of noise when running. could be a relaxing thing or an annoying thing. adding sloped sides after at the bottom of the tank will add a nice transition into the pool of water at the bottom. obviously you would put wiers at the bottom so the water will be able to drain flow to the drain. have you thought of the depth of the water in the drain pool? do you have a way of adjusting the depth?
G~
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Think Tanker
Friends Don't Let Friends Use Refugiums!
Reef Knowledge Impaired
"J" crowd member.
My Build Thread
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11-02-2005, 05:21 AM
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#75
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Plankton
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Australia
Posts: 37
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WOOHH! wat an anwesome tank. you've made it look so nice with the housing etc, and is it held up by shot glasses? Dam thats nice!!!
When its full and overflowing its gonna look awesome with the light. If you add some small neons as well it would just look stunning with the overflow.
It's no longer pimp my ride, its pimp my tank!!! YEW! never seen anything this modern before.
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Tags
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acro crab
,
actinic light
,
bali slimer
,
ball valve
,
clam tank
,
curing rock
,
feather duster
,
feather dusters
,
flow rate
,
green bali slimer
,
mag float
,
pistol shrimp
,
salt creep
,
trumpet coral
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