Skimmer and Sump

Flatfish · 03-21-2003, 10:59 PM

Here is a pic of my DIY skimmer and sump. Simple designs from various parts. I was hoping to do a leak test this week, but alas no time. Looks like next weekend will be the date that I move the project in from the garage. See my site for details. Lots of DIY.

Doug1 · 03-22-2003, 06:29 AM

Very interesting design. I am anxious to see it running. Is having the output piping so high going to cause a problem?

Casey · 03-22-2003, 06:34 AM

I agree Doug might be a problem with the output so high

Geoff · 03-22-2003, 08:14 AM

looks good, is that 1-1/4 PVC on the output. if it is and your input is a 3/4 i think you will be fine, but not by much. i like that gate valve. the only ones i could find around here were not straight through so i was worried about added back pressure in the skimmer.

G~

mojoreef · 03-22-2003, 10:51 AM

Yea that would be my only worry to. The back pressure on the output will cause you problems with the skimmer. I would give it a test drive prior to installing it, that way you could modify if needed. Other then that it looks great.

Mike

Geoff · 03-22-2003, 11:05 AM

if you do a trial run with FW then the water level will be lower than if it were SW. i do not know why, but i found this out when doing my trial runs.

G~

Doug1 · 03-22-2003, 12:51 PM

Normally on these big strap skimmers the outfeed is horizontal and unimpeded , hence the gate vale to set the water level. With the outfeed elbowed up so high the water level is going to default to the bottom of the collection cup area

Flatfish · 03-22-2003, 06:27 PM

Thanks for all the great input. I struggled with the output designfor some time. After studying several skimmers (this is my first attempt) I decided on the high pipe with no back pressure. The reason is that I wanted to get the water level in the reaction chamber high thinking that I would have better foam output with a higher flow rate. I would add less back pressure with the gate valve and achieve a higher flow rate. Plus I wanted to create a kind of counter-current affect by getting the water higher in the reaction chamber. I agree I run the risk of blowing water out the collection but I can always cut and plug the plumbing and run it in sump directly out the gate valve.. The output is a fill 6" below the collection cup and 4" below the top of the chamber. The chamber tupe is 6" OD and the unit is a total of 30" height.

The input is 3/4 and output is 1 1/4. I had to mail order all the bulkheads and gate valve from AquaticEco.com. I plan to run it on a Iwaki 30RLT which I know is marginal forthe Beckett so I have a venturi in my back pocket to retrofit if needed.

I'm interested in seeing it work - if it does. I'm planning on doing a flow/leak check on the sump sometime during the week with FW. I'll let everyone know how it goes with some pics.

Next weekend I am planning to move and start filling the project. I've got an auto top-off system on paper for it. Plus a doser I picked up at a garage sale for Kalk. I'm really looking forward to putting it all together.

Thanks!

snazlord · 03-23-2003, 06:59 PM

flatfish, nice website. i was checking out the pics of your overflow plumbing. it looks like you've got flex pvc just clamped on with a constrictor (not sure if that's what they're called - the metal rings with a screw on the side that you use to tighten them for a good fit) directly to the bulkead on the overflow. if so, is the end of the bulkead (which fits inside the flex pvc) threaded? and does it leak? i was worried about water seeping through the threads with that type of setup.

Flatfish · 03-24-2003, 08:25 PM

snaz,

I assume you're talking about the 55g. The tubing is regular dishwasher drain line (low pressure stuff) from Home Depot. It's attached with zip ties. The stuff works. If tends to get pin holes over time. Especially if you disconnect it or flex it around a lot. Nothing that a dab of silicone won't take care of. the stuff that you see there is the original tubing that was installed in 2000. I Have not had problems with it leaking at all.

FYI - they are attached to 3/4" barb fittings and secured with zip ties top and bottom. Best thing to do is to lube the barb filling with cooking oil be bore assembly. This makes it easy to assemble and provides for a better seal.

Joe