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Old 04-29-2001, 07:39 PM   #1
Blake
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Anemone Trouble


I bought this huge blue tipped anemone; it had to be about a foot accross. Now it looks pouty and is about 1/10th the size. He, wait, she... er it yeah it keeps enlarging it's foot and deflating it. The tenticles are not as filled with water as they were and his yellow color has become a darker shade of yellow, like a disease.

I can't think of anything wrong. The tank has been running for 5 months now and all water paramaters are excellent. The corals (toadstool and frogspawn) are all doing excellent. Because the corals are doing excellent I have ruled out water quality.

Lighting? Nope. Tank paramaters here.

Uf! Anemones are tough.

[ 04-29-2001: Message edited by: Blake ]
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:24 PM   #2
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Lighting could certainly be it. Is it tank raised? VHO lighting is normally not strong enough for an anemone, who for long term survival need MH.
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:33 PM   #3
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Hi ya Blake,

I'm sure you know water quality may not be an issue for corals because they have adjusted to it.

Even if your water is top-notch, the water at the anemone's LFS may have been different. Any change in water chemistry can impact on an anemone's comfort.

FWIW I've yet to set up an anemone without it going through a contortionist phase of sorts. So long as it doesn't keep portions constantly pinched (even when the rest of it is expanded --an attempt to conceal and protct some gross tissue damage), or so long as it doesn't start puking its guts (mesenteries) out in strips .... no biggie.

<IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">
hoho rge
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:33 PM   #4
Blake
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My lighting is not enough?
VHO: 96 + 96 = 192watts
NO: 30 + 30 = 60watts

Total: 252watts
Tank: 46gal

5.478watt/gal. That is not enough? Doh!
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:38 PM   #5
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Uhhh...

Watts per gallon is after all only a rough measure of lighting. What matters is distance from lamp, output of the lamp, and clarity of the fluid in between.

Still, since I assume the animal is a new purchase, I maintain it's just breaking itself in, to both lighting and water chemistry differences.
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:39 PM   #6
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I have a diff opinion then bill-e, (no offense), I have a saddled carpet anemone in my 125, with less then 3 WPG lighting, which consist of NO and PC, and I have a carpet and a flowerpot in my 58 RR with 4 NO 30 watts on it, and they have both been doing outstanding for the past year, with considerable growth, I believe it might be the species, or possible change in water chemistry. I had a blue tip that didn't do worth a **** in my tank, and have seen several of those in fellow reefers/ LFS widdle away to nothingness, I believe it might just be that the species is not a stable enough one currently to keep in an aquarium, similar to how the elegance seem to be at this time, as with Flame Angels (atleast in my area, Iowa). I may be wrong, god knows that I have many many many many flaws!!! Just my opinion.


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Old 04-29-2001, 08:53 PM   #7
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Quote:
5.478watt/gal. That is not enough? Doh!
Blake,

As horge said, there's more to light than watts....much more. Here's a simple example.

96w 6700k PC = 9000 lumens
96w 7100k PC = 2200 lumens

If I put 4 6700k bulbs on one tank and 4 7100k bulbs on the other, which tank is receiving more intensity? They both have 384watts over them. You can make the same comparisons with almost any bulb.

The way you want to determine the quality of light as it relates to photosynthesis is by a measurement called PAR, Photosynthetic Available Radiation. Read the article below for a detailed explaintion.

http://www.animalnetwork.com/fish2/a.../2/default.asp

You then also need to take into consideration, as horge stated, the depth of your tank. Watts should be used to calculate power consumption to determine your electric bill, not for photosynthesis.
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Old 04-29-2001, 08:59 PM   #8
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wagnutz69,

There are always exceptions to everything, and this hobby is no exception <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> Some people get away with all sorts of things. But the facts speak for themselves. The majority of people cant keep anemones with lighting and water quality the most frequent culprits.

As for differing in opinion with me, how dare you! <IMG SRC="smilies/laugh.gif" border="0">

[ 04-29-2001: Message edited by: bill-e ]
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Old 04-29-2001, 10:12 PM   #9
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&lt;~~Places tail between legs, and bows down to bill-e to show the more dominant one.....LOL, atleast there are good peeps like you who don't get defensive with disagreements, and i AM the exception that disproves the rule, with just about everything, lol, just hope that i don't run outta luck anytime soon. What's that, the powerhead's malfunctioning....BZZZZZZZ AHHHHH NOOOOOOOO. LOL.

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Old 04-29-2001, 11:13 PM   #10
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Well bill-e I would like to provide you a little more information about my bulbs.

Here's a text layout of my hood:

BACK
URI 36in - 95 watt Actinic White - VHO
URI 36in - 95 watt Actinic Blue - VHO
NO Coralife Actinic Blue
NO Coralife 20k
FRONT

The distance between the anemone and the bulbs is 19 inches. He is positioned under the Actinic Blue. Now about suspended particles that cut down on light trancemittance, um... the water is clear <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"> My photoperiod is about 15 hours.

I want to throw out information because I feel helpless; my dad is yelling at me. "That poor thing is dying!" Any suggestions? Should I just sit back and observe him?
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Old 04-30-2001, 02:10 AM   #11
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Hi Blake,

If I were to (reluctantly) set aside both water chemistry and lighting as issues (since you feel they cannot be) --there remains the possibility of physical damage from the transfer or from aggression in-tank (from predators or from territorial competitors like neighbouring corals).

But IF it is a new purchase, and IF you're absolutely sure there's nothing wrong with its present environment... then it is likely a case of early break-in blues: simple adjustment to diffrent environment.

If so, then yes, you can simply focus your dark energy to strengthen the anemone:

1) Assume the Lotus position in front of the tank. Or stand if you like.

2) Do NOT close your eyes, but keep open all three of them.

3) Breathe properly while focusing on the anemone and its energy field: two short intakes through the nose, and one long exhale through the mouth, over and over.

4) When you feel your qi bursting with energy, empty your lungs and cry out silently at the anemone

"EXXXXXPPPPPPAAAAAAAANDDDD!!!!!"

5) Repeat as your qi and domestic schedule allows.

However, even if it IS a mere case of break-in blues, and especially if the thing hasn't bleached, then temporarily training additional light on it (with a lamp pointed at it through the aquarium glass) almost certainly cannot hurt while it adjusts.

hth
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Old 04-30-2001, 12:57 PM   #12
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LOL Horge; personally, I prefer the wine/zen approach but that may not be appropriate for all our members. You qi technique seems suited for all ages <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
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Old 04-30-2001, 12:59 PM   #13
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Blake,

Have you tried feeding it? A small whole shrimp, uncooked and with the shell might be a good start. Also, avoid touching it or moving it.

Good luck!
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flame angel , toadstool , vho lighting



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