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Old 04-21-2004, 09:19 AM   #1
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macro algae ok in hyposalinity?


new skunks have ich
they have a handful of the red dragons tongue macro algae in there as their house. ok to leave it in while I treat with hypo?
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Old 04-21-2004, 05:26 PM   #2
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i was sitting here at work thinking and I just remembered that two days ago i added a big clump of this algae from the clownfish tank to my new fish only tank!!! I may have introduced the ich to the 55 gallon inadvertently! arg!

well anyways, does anyone know the answer to my original question? thanks.
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Old 04-21-2004, 09:35 PM   #3
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Hypo would likely nuke your weed.
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Old 04-21-2004, 09:40 PM   #4
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one of the triggers to drive Caulerpa spp. to go into the dissolutional sexual stage..
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Old 04-21-2004, 11:48 PM   #5
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ok so if i want to keep the weed yet not infest my other tank, can i freshwater dip it? can i count on that to kill any ich and not infect my other tank?
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Old 05-04-2004, 11:38 PM   #6
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Just keep the macroalgae in a tank without a host for 30 days, it can be a buket or a rubbwermaid container with adequate light and circulation. this will do what you want in terms of removing the otential pathogens or parasites.

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Old 05-04-2004, 11:42 PM   #7
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hey all---I have a noobie question for yall. I have a white film type of substance on the inside of my tank and my snails arent getting it off. Does anyone know what it is and/or how i can remove it?

/sorry to thread-jack
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Old 05-05-2004, 12:17 AM   #8
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Pix Please? or a better description...

Is it hard and crusty, above the waterline, below the waterline, near a pump or water spray, soft and spongy, or slimy? was it coralline at one time? Near a heat source? Is it flat, or does it extend from the surface of the glass? Has it gotten larger, or is it static?

Pix Please!
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Old 05-05-2004, 12:12 PM   #9
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well it is on all four sides of the tank glass, and I wiped it off and it seemed to be soft and smooth, it was all over the glass lightly but in the middle of the glass there was a dominant line of it all the way around. LIke I said I wiped it off and it seems to have worked for now but am curious to know what it could be. If it ever happens again (my luck it will) then i will post a pic.
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Old 05-05-2004, 03:00 PM   #10
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if it happened when you just had filled your tank, i might know what youre talking about. maybe undissolved solids in the salt? if that's what it is (or just too much calcium--are you supplementing?-- and its settling on the glass) just use a magnetic scraper, that's what I do. but I am just speculating cuz Im not totally sure what you have going on in there.

by the way I removed all fish out of the reef and mr. macroalgae is in the tank now. its much paler than the bunch that had not been subjected to hypo, so I think its safe to say it didnt like the lowered salinity. hopefully it recovers okay.

which brings me to my next question:

how can i safely sanitize buckets or cups that have been exposed to ichy water? is rinsing in freshwater enough? or are the encysted parasites capable of surviving a 'freshwater dip' of that nature and being transfered healthily into a non-infected tank only to hatch? do I need to do a bleach rinse? thanks.
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Old 05-06-2004, 12:26 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by salt creepette
can i safely sanitize buckets or cups that have been exposed to ichy water? is rinsing in freshwater enough? or are the encysted parasites capable of surviving a 'freshwater dip' of that nature and being transfered healthily into a non-infected tank only to hatch? do I need to do a bleach rinse? thanks.
Bleach 10% overnight works every time for all pathogens, allow to airdry for 24 hrs or treat with sodium thiosulfate to neutralize the chlorine.

hth
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Old 05-06-2004, 12:29 AM   #12
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so in the case of a bucket, where it wouldnt really be practical to fill it with 10% bleach water, could I spray it with a bleach water solution (10% bleach) and leave it sit over night and then rinse it? or would that do any good? sorry, im a bit of a moron.
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Old 05-06-2004, 09:33 AM   #13
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Yep, spritz, airdry, neutralize.

FW exposure is insufficient to destroy presence of ich/cryp tomonts in substrate, etc. FW exposure usually causes detachment of tomonts on the fish, but the detached 'cysts' remain viable, with re-exposure to SW often allowing them to resume their generation and release of little ich-babies.
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Old 05-06-2004, 11:14 PM   #14
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yup

I concur on both statements.
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