How Long to Wait??? - Page 2

Phantom Phish · 06-29-2003, 11:51 AM

I've wondered about that too. I recently started adding a couple of drops of Kents "Garlic Xtreme" to frozen and flake foods before feeding it to my fish. More as a preventive measure, as I haven't seen any ick on my fish. Any way, first my Sarcophyton elegans closed up for several days (although its opened back up and looks better than ever), and now my green star polyps have closed up. Maybe its just coincidental that these happened when I started using garlic, but its made me curious. I also started adding selcon at the same time.

tdwyatt · 06-29-2003, 12:17 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by manderson0805
In the future, if I soak garlic into the food, what would happen if one of my LPS grabbed a piece? Is garlic bad for corals?

Will not be a problem in at the levels in an aquarium if you dose appropirately. Prolly not a problem even at high doses.

It works really well with crabs and shrimps, usually just put the garlic in with a little butrter in the pan for about 30 sec on medium heat before adding the shrimp/crabs. I usually stir them around for about a minute, then serve them on a bed of Caponelli with a little basil and olive oil...

MontanaRocknReefer · 06-29-2003, 12:24 PM

Reefer Addict · 06-29-2003, 02:12 PM

Dang... now I'm hungry.

Toadfish · 06-29-2003, 02:30 PM

"Ich" the general term for most parasitesis typically, cryptocaren irritans. This is what is referred to as "Ich". Usually Ich (c.irritans)goes away with good water quality and is very seldom fatal, comparable in humans with the common cold. It sounds to me as though you have something more sinister. Amyloodinuium or Oodinium is often misdiagnoed as Ich (c. irritans) In either case, since you have removed your fish, it is best advised that you allow the system to go fallow or dormant for at least 4 weeks. This will allow the "free swimmers" to die off with out a host. The parasite will remain in the substrate of your system. It is assumed that parasites exist in all system. Water quality and other stresses being the trigger. Since the cysts will remain in the substrate it is advised that you make absolutly sure that the water quality is near perfect when you reintroduce. You may even want to go as far as siphoning out the substrate, and rinsing it in fresh water to remove as much of the cysts as possible. Whether you do this or not, you are almost guaranteed that the parasite will be in your system. Bottom line wait at least 4 weeks, rinse the subtrate if possible and restock slowly, beginning with inexpensive fish

RayPollett · 06-29-2003, 02:55 PM

A tank with Ick is usually considered free after 30 days. Personally I believe all tanks have ick. It shows up when fish are stressed and their slime coat decreases.

If your water parameters are correct and diet is good most fish will survive ick in my experence. I've even moved fish with ick into a healthy tank of other fish on purpose because the tank they were in had problems with water conditions. Never loss one doing it.

As to Bi-color angels. I've seen no signs that they are a problem shipper. Their problem is being caught with Cyanide. I make sure the ones I aquire are Hand Net Caught. They cost more this way. They also do better with a lot of LR for them to graze on when first introduced.

Ray

manderson0805 · 06-29-2003, 06:42 PM

I just got back from the only LFS around me that I trust, and they sent me home with Marine-Max, by Tropical Science, and Garlic Guard by Seachem. The Marine Maz is supposed to help defend against ich, contains 17 anti oxidants and vitamins. I dosed the tank per instructions and fed the remaining fish, a watchman goby that I couldn't catch without majorly disturbing the tank. It did eat, however it wouldn't chase after the food like it normally does, but did get a few pieces that floated on past it. I also shut down all lights, except for 1 96w actinic, and raised the temp. to 82. I'll keep updating as my tank hopefully heals. 20 some years of keeping both fresh and salt, and this is the first time I've had major problems with health. Guess my luck finally ran out......

tdwyatt · 06-29-2003, 07:32 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by RayPollett
Personally I believe all tanks have ick. It shows up when fish are stressed and their slime coat decreases...

As to Bi-color angels. I've seen no signs that they are a problem shipper. Their problem is being caught with Cyanide

I totally agree with Ray on both points, although the Bicolors are not exactly a beginner's fish. I also think you had a more severe problem than you may have thought (as toadfish has already pointed out). As the fish are already out of the tank, best to let the tank lay fallow as has already been mentioned. For your q tank, get a foam filter and put it in your regular sump. Keep a replacement in there as well. This will allow you to keep the q tank empty between uses and have a sponge/biological filter ready to go with live mineralizing bacteria in the starting sponge and a replacement as well. This wil prevent ammonia spikes when reestablishing the hospital after it has been down.

Good points by all, great job folks.

HTH