Sponsor Our Community
Go Back   The Reef Tank > The Reference Place > Coral/Invert Archive > SPS(scleractinians)


Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!

 
 
Thread Tools
Old 01-15-2003, 07:01 PM   #16
ShirleyM
Sailfin
 
ShirleyM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Noblesville, Indiana
Posts: 2,441
Images: 2
Reefcam, thanks.

I'm really scared to clip the tips.

Anyone else done this successfully, or should I leave it alone and "wait and see"? On the other hand, it seems it would be hard to continue growing with white tips.


Thanks,
Shirley
Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!
ShirleyM is offline  
Old 01-15-2003, 07:05 PM   #17
reefcam
Going Broke
 
reefcam's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: OR
Posts: 1,594
I've left some of the tips before, due to being lazy, and algae just grow on it. At the end, I end up clipping it. When you clip it, the CA part may just crumble instead of clipping off like other acros do. Some hydnos have a soft skeleton. It'll take a little longer than some acros to grow back, but IME, they always bounce back. I've abused my to death and it just keeps getting bigger.

It even losthalve of the base to a Rose Anemone, but slowly recovering.

Jim
reefcam is offline  
Old 01-15-2003, 07:12 PM   #18
Casey
Eat more PIE
 
Casey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 18,604
Images: 111
Shirley clip that baby I have done it sucessfully make sure you clip all of the white off,it will grow back here is one I have clipped. Casey
__________________
Double your drive space. Delete Windows

Casey is offline  
Old 01-15-2003, 08:15 PM   #19
ShirleyM
Sailfin
 
ShirleyM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Noblesville, Indiana
Posts: 2,441
Images: 2
OK - clipping it tonight...

Casey - How DO you get your sps's to grow so lush?????????????????????????????????????????????? ???????????????????????????

Shirley
ShirleyM is offline  
Old 01-15-2003, 08:38 PM   #20
Casey
Eat more PIE
 
Casey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 18,604
Images: 111
Same way I do my flowers in the yard trim them down so they will bush out and slowly hit them with more and more MH light and check calcium levels weekly. Trim thay guy and keep an eye on him keep water quality up and good flow and good light and he will come back strong. Casey
__________________
Double your drive space. Delete Windows

Casey is offline  
Old 01-16-2003, 09:41 AM   #21
aquanut92368
Plankton
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Brazil IN.
Posts: 18
Hi Guys and Gals,
I thought that I would chime in here. I have sent Shirley an email on my thoughts and I figured that I would share them here as well. I have kept this particular species under PC and MH at different times. It appears to me to be either from lighting or another coral stinging it. My guess is that it is the lighting. I have suggested the same as most of you, move it down away from the higher intensity lighting. Also suggested to watch it for a day or so and if there are no signs of improvement to remove the affected areas. Shirley, if and when you cut it, the skeleton is fairly soft so don't be suprised if a small part of it crumbles, it will be allright. This type of coral is a slow(and I mean sloooow) grower but it is also a pretty hardy one as mentioned in a previous post. Keep us posted and I hope that it works out.
Thanks,
Kevin
aquanut92368 is offline  
Old 01-16-2003, 10:03 AM   #22
Casey
Eat more PIE
 
Casey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 18,604
Images: 111
I agree Kevin
__________________
Double your drive space. Delete Windows

Casey is offline  
Old 01-16-2003, 10:07 AM   #23
ShirleyM
Sailfin
 
ShirleyM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Noblesville, Indiana
Posts: 2,441
Images: 2
Thanks, Kevin, I got your email!
I cut the affected areas last night.
I'll keep you posted,
Shirley
ShirleyM is offline  
Old 01-16-2003, 11:33 PM   #24
tdwyatt
senior member
 
tdwyatt's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Walnut Grove, SC, USA
Posts: 13,706
Images: 3
Quote:
Originally posted by Casey
Shirley clip that baby I have done it successfully make sure you clip all of the white off, it will grow back here is one I have clipped. Casey
I believe Casey's specimen in the photograph is actually an Acropora spp., it is different in both morphological and growth characteristics from Hydnophora rigida and related spp. One of the great things about Acropora spp. is that due to their lack of effective allopathic defenses and ineffectual nematocysts for anything short of prey capture, they use their incredible speed of growth as a means of outcompeting the surrounding corals and related Alcynonians. This same speed of growth is responsible for the white tips that are seen in Acroporiids, as their growth is so rapid that the zooxanthellae are not capable of reproducing fast enough to keep up with the axial corallite development. In [Acropora spp.[/i] this is a sign of good growth conditions. In Hydnophora spp. it can be a sign that either some neighboring spp. of coral with potent sweepers is stinging it at night (especially if there is a potential culprit on the side of most of the damage), shipping damage (you said it was an old specimen, but moving it or brushing up against it or handling it to move it could do this as well), the presence of allopathic substances in the water column (i.e., Sarcophyton spp. or Nepthea spp. or related octocorals in the same ecosystem), potential predation by higher organisms (butterflyfishes or parrotfishes or Diodontidae spp. of fishes, some mollusks/ seaslugs as well), prolonged exposure to the atmosphere, or too intense a light exposure (or just plain UV). Hydnophora rigida usually needs pretty intense lighting, but must usually be acclimatized to it if it was procured from the usual LFS sources, but as you have pointed out, this specimen has been in the tank for a good while. Bulb changes can sometimes make these same responses occur, but this would usually be with MH or a large number of VHO bulbs over a system. With all that said, some specimens of H. rigida will display lighter, almost white tips when they are in a rapid growth phase (see photos on page 366-367 Vol.II of Corals of the World, Drs. Veron and Stafford-Smith). These members of the genus tend to prefer bright lighting and moderate currents as opposed to most of the other members of the genus, which originate from murky lagoonal conditions or deep sheltered reef areas where they demonstrate much slower growth. There are some exceptions to this, as there is some variation within each specie.

This white area may be normal for your coral, but Hydnophora are also quite prone to bleaching events and may display White Band disease as well. Check to see if there is bare skeleton or if there is a thin layer of tissue left on the surface of the skeleton. If it is bare skeleton, definitely clip the white sections off with a pair of wire cutters and paint the cut edges with iodine, possibly a 4 to 6 min iodine bath as well. If it is a bleaching event and the rest of the tissue seems fine, I would be undecided as to whether to clip off the old tissue or not. This is a slow growing genera as a whole, although cuttings of these will quite easily accept new locations and VERY SLOWLY begin to encrust their base.

Without actually seeing the specimen, I would be irresponsible in recommending a treatment here, but this should give you some direction in making a decision for treatment, if indeed treatment is even necessary. A lot of info to digest here, I hope this helps you some. (btw, Casey, that IS a nice Acro... )

(edit: after looking at the picture again, I think it looks olike bare skeleton in the photograph and would definitely need the clip approach. tdw)
__________________
Tom <"))))>(
(TDWyatt)
Wise men speak because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -Plato

Last edited by tdwyatt; 01-16-2003 at 11:37 PM.
tdwyatt is offline  
Old 01-17-2003, 04:13 AM   #25
Casey
Eat more PIE
 
Casey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 18,604
Images: 111
What I have found in my experience is if it is bleaching it does not get better on its own,I always lose it or algae grows on it ,that I dont like ,I havent lose any coral yet that I have clipped including Hydnophora. Maybe Tom can tells us a little bit more about bleaching this subject is real interesting to me. Casey
__________________
Double your drive space. Delete Windows

Casey is offline  
Old 01-17-2003, 07:21 AM   #26
ShirleyM
Sailfin
 
ShirleyM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Noblesville, Indiana
Posts: 2,441
Images: 2
Hi Tom,

Thanks for writing!
Originally, it was placed higher in the tank to the right of a large Galaxia coral which sits high in the rear corner, but I don't think the Galaxia's long sweepers could reach it at night
It was definitly bare skeletan and I clipped it already. I've also moved it down lower.

There are plenty lobophytum, toadstools, and cabbage corals in the tank, and I've often wondered if we can successfully keep soft and sps corals together...seems like some do it real well (Casey? You have both, right?)

I have Lugol's Iodine. Should I paint it with that?

I also have a coral dip which I've rarely used, Kent Marine Tectra-D, which has iodine in it. Perhaps that's what I should use.

Regarding a different coral, we have a brown fuzzy staghorn (don't know the genus/species) that is epoxied into a rock. It has developed bare white skeletan around its base and partly up one of the branches. Most of the branches have light growth tips. A couple are just brown. Should we clip the white bottom and clip the partially white branch off and re-attach the rest?

Thanks!
Shirley
ShirleyM is offline  
xFeatured Products
Hydor ETH 200 and 201 Inline External Heater 200W

$48 to $61

at 22 sellers

Current USA 60 inch Orbit Fixture

$254 to $340

at 12 sellers

Iwaki MD30RLXT Water Pump (Japanese Motor)

$220 to $276

at 10 sellers

Eheim Filter Ecco External Canister Aquarium Filter 2234

$95 to $133

at 13 sellers

Black and White Clownfish

$30 to $220

at 12 sellers

150 Watt 14000K Metal Halide Bulb Double-Ended

$20 to $71

at 53 sellers

Copperband Butterflyfish

$17 to $160

at 21 sellers

 

Bookmarks

Tags
acropora sp , cabbage coral , kent marine , monti frag , sarcophyton sp , sarcophyton spp , sps corals , toadstool , vho actinics , vho bulbs , white band disease




Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off

Sitemap:1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71 72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100 101 102 103 104 105 106 107 108 109 110 111 112 113 114 115 116 117 118 119 120 121 122 123 124 125 126 127 128 129 130 131 132 133 134 135 136 137 138 139 140 141 142 143 144 145 146 147 148 149 150 151 152 153 154 155 156 157 158 159 160 161 162 163 164 165 166 167 168 169 170 171 172 173 174 175 176 177 178 179 180 181 182 183 184 185 186 187 188 189 190 191 192
Sponsor Our Community

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:06 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Our lawyer tells us that, by pressing the "New Thread" or "New Reply" button, you acknowledge that the opinions and information expressed in your article are yours alone and not those of thereeftank.com, dba The Reef Tank. Further, you agree to indemnify The Reef Tank, its moderators, administrators and agents from any and all liability which may arise as a result of your article. (C)opyright 2006 TheReefTank.com