I need some help with new refugium build for new 75 gallon reef, looking to build sump out of 20 or 30 gallon long tank. Will dedicate almost half to refugium. Using 550 gph pump for tank return. Questions:

20 or 30 gallon sump?
550 gph to much flow, if so how much should bypass refugium?
best substrate for refugium?

I have a 45 gal reef tank which has had a 3 inch Bicolor Angel fish as it only inhabitant for 7 months This last weekend I added a 2 inch Maroone Clown and the Angel will not allow it to swim freely. The Angel keeps the clown up in top corner of the tank. Everytime the clown swims out of the area the angel swipes at him. It has been 4 days and no improvements. What can I do to stop this? I thought that maybe adding more fish would divert the angels attention. I was thinking of adding 3 green chromis - would that help?

Reef octopus hob for sale,250 used for 4 days its been sitting since. Obo thanks

Hi All! I just wanted to say hi to everyone. I'm new to TRT and trying to do some good old fashion networking. I'm in the process of finishing my aquaculture facility and just wanted to get my name out there. By no means am I hoping to make a quick buck or retire fast-I'm a hobbyist and love aquaculture. I've been reading the posts in different forums for a while and you all seem like a great group of people where anyone can learn a lot from!




Jay

Daydreaming today about corals I was thinking about designing a NPS/Azoo Tank.

I have a 14 gallon biocube that I was thinking of converting over possibly?

I did read this article some time ago and this seems like a really elaborate set up.

I was wondering if ANYONE out there has managed things like carnation corals and flower tree corals successfully for a year or more and what kind of set up you may have with that (as compared to the above set up).

PS - Love to see pictures of some NPS/Azoo tanks if you have them.

I have a rather large yellow fiji and kenya tree. I know there is some kind of chemical warfare going on from time to time in the tank. I've had a monti get sorta burned in a localized area near the kenya tree and I've had the kenya tree closer to the fiji before and it shut completely down (moved resulted in no change to lighting and no perceptible change in flow).

I have seen a huge reduction in problems since I've started using carbon in the sump.

I'm just wondering if there are other ways to help manage the chemicals even more effectively?

I set up a new tank on Monday. I have a 92 Gallon corner tank, with wet/dry. I added approx 50lbs of live rock (from another established aquarium) and 90 lbs of bio live argonite sand. The kind that says instant cycling. I also added a bottle of bio spira. Long story short I had some fish that I had to get out of another tank so I put them in this new tank. The ph 8.0 Ammonia 0.25 Nitrite .50 Nitrate 10ppm. It has had these same test readings since Monday night and still today. Looks like not much is changing. The fish I added were a blue damsel, blue hippo tang, two percula clowns, and some sort of goby. The fish seem happy, they're eating and very active. So is my tank cycled? Or should I be expecting some spikes in the water that will kill these fish?

Have a 10 Gallon Tank setup from a 75Gal. I have a c.c. starfish, maroon and percula clowns I just bought with two anemone's. Pink Tip and another anemone I forgot the name. I am sorta new to this and would like to ask what do I need to do about this? Lights are(2) 10w 120v reef sun bulbs. Just bought them yesterday ..Here is the picture....

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The long awaited Giesemann Teszla is now in stock and ready to ship. These are some of the most elegant looking led fixtures we've seen to date. They are sure to be a hit! Check it out.
http://www.aquariumspecialty.com/gie...ighting-system

Just a little background first. I have a 29g bio cube and has been up an running for about 2 months now. The past 2 weeks I have seen the diatom bloom and recently it seems to be subsiding. I am wondering if during this period that the diatoms will reduce the oxygen levels in the tank? I lost one of my clowns last night who recently both were not eating and the one turning pale, fast breathing and I found him last night on the surface then on the bottom. Could this be due to oxygen? I tested everything this morning and nothing stuck out with the results:

1.0223
pH:8.0
KH: 9.0dkh
Amonia:0
Nitirte:0
Nitrate:5
Calcium:460
Phosphate:0

I do weekly water changes and the inverts in the tank seem to be doing fine: pep shrimp, hermits and snails.

Any thoughts?

I got a free ten gallon tank, and was thinking of what I could do with it.

I have a barebottom 110 gallon display tank,and a 40 breeder barebottom sump. I have had nitrates near 20 ppm for about 2 months and cannot get them down. I've got hardly any detritus in my display or in my sump, and rocks seem relatively clean. Don't understand it.

I was thinking of using the 10 gallon as a fuge tank and putting it next to my display as sort of an aesthetic thing. I think fuges look cool and thought it would look pretty cool in my room. Also, it would be a good place for pods to grow and macro algae. I figured I would either drill it or just put an overflow box on it and T off my current return pipe with a valve to adjust the flow.

Do you think this would be an ideal thing to do in order to get my nitrates down? I also thought it would be a good spot for pods etc. Also, I'll be adding 10 more gallons to my system.

Any suggestions/advice, do you think this is a good idea?

I've tried vodka dosing and am having some problems with it so I'd rather use a more natural approach to getting my nitrates down.

Thinking of building a stand and putting the tank where the fan is catty corner.

Do you think it's worth using a 10 gallon tank for a fuge or should I use a larger tank like a 20 gallon? I was thinking of maybe putting a DSB and some macro algaes..

The water from my Display tank would first be going through the barebottom sump with my protein skimmer and then it would go through the fuge. I would still get plenty of detritus buildup in my barebottom sump.

What do you think?

Well I just set up my new 360g 8' long x 4' wide x 18" reef tank in my new house about 3 months ago. I have about 20 plus fish in it now some small and big a few shrimp. My tank is mostly sps a few lps. What do u think about me getting a small Cortez stingray to live in my tank. Any one have a stingray in there reef tank?

Hey guys I have had my clownfish for a month now and since I got a cleaner shrimp my Clowns Tail Fin has got a few small tears do you think it has anything to do with the shrimp? cheers :)

I will start this thread now, since I have the tank. This will be the layout of what I have planned for this tank.


110g Reef Savvy tank. 60x25x18 With a bean animal overflow.

Side tank Acrylic 25x13x22 (22g)

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/s...ow-system.aspx

Display Tank will hold mainly SPS with a few high end LPS like a Wellso Brain and some Acans.

Side tank will hold a nem and 2-3 LPS like a Scoly and Brain. Maybe some high end colorful zoas. Nothing that needs much flow.


Fish load in the display tank:
2 tangs (purple and a yellow or if war breaks out trade yellow for a kole)
Paired up misbar Maroon clowns with RBTA
Flame tail blenny
Dragon Mandarin
School of Lytail Anthia (5)
Royal Gramma
Bellus Angel
blood shrimp
cleaner shrimp (3)

Fish load in the side tank (refugium #1)
2 mated/breeding midnight clowns with rainbow rtba
yashi goby/pistol pair.


I will be reusing the sump. It is a 75g AGA tank. converted to a 3 stage sump. It was drilled to have 2 external pumps, but I am only using one. I am redrilling on of those holes to a bigger size to accomodate the bigger pump and sealing the other hole.

The return pump is an older style reeflo 4200gph external. This will be plumbed so that two -1.5'" return lines go into the tank via newly drilled holes (1 per side) one of those (the right side) will be T'd off to the side tank (Chris designed the stand to hold a tank apprx 24g to the right of the display as an external refugium) which will be gravity fed source of flow and a gravity fed overflow into the sump. This way no flooding or extra power needed.

Skimmer will be my current iTec-200 skimmer which I absolutely love.

Flow will be done with 2 mp-40w's in display tank and some new koralias in the sump below.

Lights will be the tried an true ATI 8bulb fixture

3 motor Dosing pump will keep my 2 part balanced

ATO will be gravity fed to sump via the RODI container in the fishroom beside the display. This will never have to be reconfigured or maintained.

RODi is being plumbed in a way that it keeps a constant level of water in a 32g container (float valve limited to 25g) that will be raised high enough so that it can gravity feed the sump and be poured into a salt container for water changes. Also, to double protect myself from flooding, just above where the water level is inside the 32g container will be a overflow bulkhead. Plumbed into the sink so that if by chance the float on the rodi fails and the container overflows, that water will be dumped into the sink and not my floor.

The next post will be some pictures of equipment. The actual build starts over the next few days. Wish me luck!@!@

Got a bubble coral 2 weeks ago and in spite of 3 different locations, it continues to look worse. LFS guy told me last night to feed it 30 minutes after the tank lights have been off. Any thoughts?

Looking for a local reefer near the Tampa area who may be selling monti-cap frags. Not picky on color

PM me with your price.

Well after a long stent without reefs in my home, I got the itch!
I had some maintenance monsters(55 gallon w/20 gallon sump/fuge, 120 gallon w/30 gallon sump/fuge, 30 gallon tall) in the past and currently do have any running tanks. But I got a 10 gallon sitting around and my wife and I are expecting. I think im gonna put it in my daughters room:)

Anyone ever used one of these as a sump?

hoping for some advice guys.

I forgot to put frontline on my dogs and we now have fleas in the house.

Looks like we need to set off some flea bombs.

Question is what to do with my tank? Could I put the tops on and cover it with a clear plastic sheet, tie it down etc to make sure none of the chemicals can get in? Turn off the pumps for the 3 hours your supposed to be out of the house?

Has anybody had to do this?

Thanks!!

Morning all, I have a question about how high should the fixture be from the top of the tank. I just got my odyess 4bulb t5 light fixture it comes with 4-5 inch legs. I'm not using the legs because the light brightness goes everywhere in the room so I left it on the top it looks nicer and the tank comes to life but I know too close can damage stuff. So how close should it be.

Hey just wanted to know the best way to eliminate Aiptasia in my tank? what do you guys think?

So I'm building another stand in the next few weeks and need any ideas that you have. I have a 48 inch 110 gallon. I am building this stand to fit a 125 long so 72 inches + 2 inches for finishing. I have learned a few things with my 1st stand I built and I am trying to make this stand user and maintenance friendly. So here are my plans so far. The stand will sit at 39 inches high, same as my current one. I did this because the amount of time I spend looking at my tank would hurt my back being hunched over all the time. I'm 6'2" and the very top of my tank is eye level, this makes for great viewing. I am going to have a 55 gallon sump totally over to one side leaving 2 feet for my ro/di filter, ro/di water top off ( rubber maid that holds 20 gallons. I would also like a shelf or two ( 6 inches wide by 12 inches or so. ) I will also set up a 2 inch drain pipe somewhere the end of my 55 gallon and close to my ro/di filter for WC and waste water. This stand will be friendly for WC and maintenance. I also have a 48inch double t8 light strip for lighting the entire stand that will be mounted on the "ceiling" if you will, of the stand. Sorry for all the info just trying to cover the bases here. I will also make a wall that will seperate the sump from all my power plugs, to keep all moisture out. I plan on using pcv for my return and down flow, insulated for noise reduction. The back of the stand will also be insulated to keep the noise down to a minimum. I will also have 4 doors to the stand, 2 in front that will both be 3 feet each for complete access and 2 on the sides again for complete access. I will also have 2x4s coming up from the back and over the tank for lights to be hung. I will also have a canopy that will flip up on a dowel/pivot point to have access to the top without removing the lights.

So I am asking you if you could do a stand what would you different? Any ideas that would make your life easier? thoughts on my set up and change you would make? open to all suggestions. Sorry for the long novel:rolleyes::blob:cheers!

And here's the Official TRT Chorus® to sing.......

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TOOOOOO YOUUUUUUUU!!!!!!!!!



I Googled "Classic Mustang Cake" and this photo was the most fun! :rotflmao:

Hi Guys
I got this bought for me as a present, but am new to the hobby so i dont know what it is. Also is it a LPS, SPS, Soft coral.
Any help is appreciated.
Thanks

Its been in my tank since i got my rocks, still unsure what it is, tho its getting bigger every day.. do i have to feed it? or will it just do its thing? im hoping its friendly. Oh and i just found a baby starfish :D eating algae on my trochus snail is it gonna help my tank? or if i add corals will it eat em?

any thoughts? cheers :)

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Morning all sorry no coffee or breakfast. I'm stuck in er since two and have to stay at least seven for day crew for test.hope you all have a better day then me.

I've got a 40gallon tank,im experimenting on power head placement,where did u guys witn 40 gallons tanks have beter luck

I've been in the air with LEDs for a while now & saw a multichip LED build that really sold me on them. I had initially considered the CREE 3w LEDs, but they're about $8/each & I would need about 48 of them. That's almost $400 for LEDs alone.

I was talking to the girlfriend about it & she told me to just do it already. :P

Eventually I'll run 6 20w chips. 4*20w 10,000K & 2*20w Royal Blue chips. But for cost reasons I'm just doing the 10,000k for now.

My parts list:
4- 10,000K 20w epistar LED multichips from AC-RC
1- High Temp Adhesive
2- 20K potentiometer
2- ELN-60-24D Drivers
4- Heatsinks (Old desktops are a great source for them)
1- 12v Power Supply

I went with the 10,000k for now because they have a higher light output than the royal blues & I can still run my 2 T5 acintic lights to add blue to the tank.

I went with the "D" series driver because the Pots are cheaper than the PWMs, I don't need to dim to 0%, & the "D" series gives me the option to use a controller or arduino based device later on whereas the "P" can only use the PWM.

The chips I'm using are 22w. They have a maximum current rating of 2,000mA & a fV of 10-11V. I'm planning to run them in series so I can run them at a maximum of 2A & will need a forward voltage of 20-22V.

The drivers I chose can go as high as 24V. They can push up to 2.3A but can be internally reduced by 25%, so I can turn them down to 1.725A so I'm not concerned about blowing the chips once I adjust the drivers using my multimeter. Once I adjust the internal current max I'll use the Pots to dim the LEDs as I see fit.